Andrew Thayer
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The final day of the journey down the Shenandoah River began a several miles upstream from the confluence with the Potomac River. The river is flat and slow at this point until you reach the rapids where it gets challenging. The first day that John and I started canoeing on this journey there was rain, the river was up and moving fast. A sharp contrast from over 150 miles back and two weeks ago at the start of canoeing up until today. We decided to finish the journey on Saturday, a day earlier than the scheduled because Sunday there will be rain. Around half of the days on this journey had some amount of rain and it would be nice to end it with no rain.
We approached the drop known as Bull Falls and pull up to a rock to take a closer look. As we are looking at the falls, a flotilla of rafts from some of the area’s river guides appear around the bend. John and I decide to wait and watch the rafts go through first. Slowly, one by one, they go through Bull Falls. When the last of over a dozen rafts approaches the falls, we load up in the canoe for our turn. We have lightened the load for this final section of the journey. I have only brought a video camera in a small water tight box and plan to use it when there is little chance of it getting wet. John has brought his small video camera and rubber bands it to the underside of the lid of his LSU baseball cap. He also brings the only phone and his wallet in a water box. We also brought a bottle of spring water that we have been carrying with us from the spring at the beginning of this journey where we filled up the bottle. One other item we brought that needs mentioning is an extra flotation device to help keep the canoe afloat when filled with water. My daughter was happy to lend us her penguin snow tube. The tube has an attachment on one side that is in the shape of a penguin head. We strapped it down in the middle of the canoe. With our penguin and canoe, we paddle out to the falls.
The falls that we are going through is one of three chutes on the left side of the river. There is a left, center and right chute. Ours is on the right. The many rafters have gone through and are waiting below the falls. I see the falls getting closer and the scores of people watching from beyond. We slowly are drawn into the falls, speed up and crash through the first wave. Taking on lots of water, we work to line the canoe up for the next wave. We ride the wave to the top where it pushes the canoe sideways and dumps us. A short float out from the rapids and we are able to stand up and pull the canoe to a rock where we turn it over and drain out the water. Cheers and whistles come from the crowd of people at our attempt at the falls.
The rafts begin there journey and I check my video camera and it looks fine. I get some video of the falls and some more of the rafts. After chatting with some of the people we load back up and float some more. No one ever commented about the penguin. Maybe no one noticed. It looks like a regular tube except for the fact there is a separate tube that looks like a head attached to one side. It could be possible that everyone is so into the river, rapids and the moment that they do not notice much else. That is what the river and nature is all about. Experiencing that moment in nature and here in the Shenandoah Valley and on the river, you can find these moments everywhere.
We continue on down the Shenandoah and go through many rapids, crash into many waves and bail lots of water out of the canoe but were never swamped or rolled again that day. The sight of our final destination of the Potomac Wayside comes into view. I can see a woman with a little girl on the shoreline. It’s Nina and Carmen to come and pick us wet river dogs up for the last time. We reach the shore, John and I get out and have a drink of our spring water that we have carried over 180 miles.
The water that we collected at the spring, carried all the way and then drank at the end is about as good as water gets. I would not drink the water from the river at the end of this journey. The water from the spring to the Potomac was polluted and trashed along the way. We picked up trash that filled up about dozen trash bags. There seems to be a certain amount of people that just do not care about the environment in which they live. The simple task of properly throwing trash away and even recycling can make a difference. We can teach our children and others that we have a responsibility to our environment. You can even show them what this river and valley have to offer.
Thanks to everyone who helped me with this journey and to everyone that tuned in. I have an art show in Crozet, Virginia next weekend (May 9-10). So if you are in the Charlottesville area, stop by for a visit. Some point in the near future, I will post more images of the journey as I will have more time to edit through the thousand or more images. Check back from time to time to see if I added anything new. Thanks again and enjoy the outdoors.
This entry was completed by Nina Thayer.
I woke the boys up at 4:30am with breakfast and coffee ready. They ate and we loaded the van with the gear and the most important item…a sleeping Carmen. There didn’t appear to be a cloud in the sky for pictures of the sunrise from the Shenandoah River, but as I was driving back to the house I noticed that Andy very well might get some color this morning. They will see some wildlife for sure. Yesterday there was a lot of people on the river, but today being a workday for most the boys should have the river to themselves and the various animals that they will come across.
They got off without a problem this morning and I’m too hopped up on coffee to go back to sleep.
I want to give a special “thank you” to Andrew Keller who allowed us to use his beautiful property last night to take out and put back in this morning. It will be a place I remember always because that is where Carmen caught her first fish. Uncle John bought her a “big girl” fishing pole because now she is a professional fisherwoman! Thanks Uncle John.
Hopefully the boys won’t be on the river all day today. I think they are doing 12 miles and I’ll be taking them out at Morgans Ford in Warren County. At least I don’t have to cross the low water bridge! Have a wonderful day and thanks for reading along.
Day 8 and 9 Seven Bends of the Shenandoah and beyond
What takes people 10 miles and 15 minutes to get from Woodstock to Strasburg on Route 11 is an easy journey by car. By river, it has been 30 miles and two days because of the meandering river. It will still take another day to get to Strasburg. During the 1800s, men loaded these long boats called gundalows and floated down the North Fork to Front Royal and then on to Harpers Ferry where their goods (such as flour and iron) would be moved by the C&O Canal or later by train to the east coast cities. The gundalows were also sold for wood since there was no way for the boats to get back up river. After selling their goods and boats, these men would walk back up the valley to return home. I have a greater appreciation for these men of long ago whose job it was to float down the river to bring products to market. They probably saw similar things that I have been seeing.
With the last couple days of sunny weather, the wildlife has come out. The wildlife is smart enough to stay inside during bad weather leaving only crazy people and nature photographers insane enough to be out in cold, rainy, high waters and big rapids as it was earlier this week. The water then was a dark green but now it has turned more of an olive color and clearing up.
The wildlife of the last few days starts with turtles, muskrats, many deer on many occasions and John said he saw a mink, which is possible since I have seen a mink on another trip. The bird list starts with the most common such as great blue herons, green herons, belted kingfishers, mallards, wood ducks, canada geese which are just now having the young. I have seen two sets of goslings and one of ducklings. To finish the list are orioles, ospreys, mergansers and eagles.
Great wildlife is all around us here in the valley. A good reason to take care of what we have.
This insert was completed by Nina Thayer, so just know that I might make a few mistakes or have more add libs that my husband doesn’t approve of, ha-ha!!
After the wonderfully cold night on the Hovatter farm, Rob (Andy’s oldest brother) and Andy headed down the river leaving Carmen, John, and me (Nina) to break down camp. The “night log” made it through the night so we had enough firewood to have a morning fire. John and Carmen did some fishing while we waited for the tent to dry and then loaded up gear and headed home.
The next stop was at the Inn at Narrow Passage, which is a bed and breakfast lovely inn. The owners, Ellen and Ed Markel (1-800-459-8002) gave Andy and John a FREE room! That was very nice of them and helped us out tremendously. Ed had breakfast waiting for them and there was a crackling fire in the fire place. They had grapefruit and “pain-par-dous,” which means French Toast to ya’ll non-Cajuns. Andy made some really nice pictures of the breakfast set up and the boys standing in front of the fire. Apparently, John got Mr. Ed all fired up talking politics. You know the Politzs’, always causing trouble (myself included)!!!
After having a wonderful breakfast and a good night sleep at the Inn at Narrow Passage, John and Andy got a late start and we also had car issues, so Carmen stayed with Uncle John and he taught her how to cast with her fishing pole. The plan was for Carmen and Uncle John to fish that night, but they rolled in right at dusk, so she didn’t get to fish.
I set up camp for the boys at Stonewall Mill. This is a private piece of property next to the river owned by Mr. Frank Cihlar. He gave Andy permission to camp on his property. Mr. Frank has done a beautiful job preserving the mill and making it a beautiful place to see. I set up camp by myself because Nancy Thayer (grandmother a/k/a “Tutu”) watched Carmen at the house while I did the manual labor and then she brought her to me on the river to wait for the boys to make it to camp. I lit the lanterns and placed them as close to the river that I could. Right before dusk I saw Uncle John’s head lamp coming down the river. I was happy to see that the boys made it before it got too dark to see. They barely got wet, but did have to carry the boat and equipment around three different obstacles in the river. Andy will have to give you more information on that.
The boys were gone when Mrs. Jackie Sager dropped me off at the campsite…still having car issues, but not anymore thanks to Ms. Jackie!! The boys had a wonderful night sleep last night on Mr. Frank’s property. He showed up this morning and I got to meet him and his wonderful family while I was tearing down the tent. (I got my first war wound by busting my knuckle. I’ve broken several nails, but those don’t count.) Mr. Frank is a very nice man with a beautiful home and was happy to allow Andy to camp on his property and told me that he wished that he could do the journey with Andy.
Everyone that we have met so far along the way has been so nice and helpful. I hope the journey continues along those lines.
I think that tonight Andy, John, Carmen and I will be having dinner with the “Friends of the North Fork.” I don’t know the details, but I’m sure I will be filling ya’ll in when I get back in this evening or tomorrow morning. Have a wonderful day everyone. It’s a beautiful day to be on the river and keep those boys in your prayers so that they can stay safe, but most importantly have a wonderful time. I know that Andy is having the time of his life and John is enjoying himself now that the rain has stopped!
More later…
Day 7 Mt. Jackson to Woodstock
Today, my brother has joined me for the day. John needed a break after three days of rain, high waters and big rapids. After those conditions, he deserves a break for helping me get through all that. Rob Thayer will be stepping in the canoe today. During the morning, there were some clouds which always makes the light more interesting. There were some strong winds on the river that blew us around a bit. By afternoon, it was all sun. So the animals were out.
Saw ospreys on many occasions. Great Blue Herons, kingfishers, green herons and turtles. Yesterday, I saw a bald eagle soaring far above us. The next few days look sunny so I will get more chances to photograph the wildlife.
One note on the day 6 journey. John and I came upon a rapid that was the most difficult for the day. Between Timberville and New Market is a falls called Plains Mill Falls. It occurs right after a sharp left bend. Leaving little time to pick your course. We picked the correct course but took on lots of water from the waves. So a quick pull over after the rapid for some bailing was required.
Today’s only big rapid was after passing Red Banks called the ledges falls as there are a few ledges that drop for a total of about five feet. Rob and I choose our line and had to make a quick left turn to avoid a rock at the bottom of the last ledge. I was here last summer and the water level was so low that floating through was impossible. I thought that with the right amount of water would make this a good rapid. I was right.
Tonight, we won’t be needing the tent. Ellen and Ed Markel are hosting us at their bed and breakfast next to the Shenandoah River near Woodstock. www.innatnarrowpassage.com I am looking forward to their breakfast and know that it will be a great start to the next of my journey down the Shenandoah River.
One last note about the night in Mt. Jackson. I talked my wife and daughter to camp with us. They did and Carmen got her smores.

Brocks Gap to Timberville
The day begins with some fog and soon the sun breaks through. It is a welcome sight from yesterday’s rain. The previous day was filled with fast water and rapids. The water level has dropped a little today but it is still fast. After floating through some nice rapids and the Route 259 bridge at Cootes Store, we approach our first major obstacle, Battle Bluff low water bridge. We pull into a little cove just before the bridge on the right and beach the canoe. I grab my camera, a snack and walk to the bridge for a closer look and a photo.
The water level is high enough that it’s flowing over the bridge. After some discussion, we agree on the line we want and get back into the canoe for the ride. We approach the bridge straight on. The front of the canoe slams through the first big wave and water pours all over us. We ride out the next few rapids and look for a place to pull over and do some water bailing. The canoe took on a lot of water but stayed afloat. The canoe has been tough and able to get through fine under some difficult situations and weather. Thanks to Josh Warner at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports in Warrenton for their help in finding me the canoe.
After we get all the water out of the canoe, clouds move in and it begins to rain. Which means I won’t be getting my camera out as often as I would like.
This concludes the first part of today’s journey. I will include a photo of the low water bridge we rode.
Day Four – Fulks Run to Brocks Gap
The day started with rain and that continued during the whole day in the form of rain, drizzle or sprinkles. The river rose a couple feet during the day creating many large rapids. Not long after Lairs Run bridge, there was a big tree laying across the river. We pulled off the side for a moment to contemplate our options. The tree was stable looking and in between some limbs hanging down and the distance between the trunk and the water level looked like an opening just big enough for us to squeeze through. After a discussion, we set off and was successful in shooting the gap. However, until the tree is dealt with, this is a dangerous obstacle.
More rapids, more rain. The river is up and moving fast. The river flow doesn’t give us much time to prepare and look at the next rapids to chose our line. We have been choosing some good lines with big waves. As we crash into each wave, water flies over the bow and drenches me. It’s cold water but I’m having fun. A few stops had to be made this day so that we could bail the water out of the canoe that accumulates with every rapid.
We finally reach our lunch objective by the afternoon. Wet, cold and hungry, we staggered into Fulks Run Grocery next to the river. Ron and Peggy Turner run the store. John and I, each order a hot pork barbecue sandwich and a suger-cured county ham sandwich. During our conversation about the weather, Ron and Peggy mention that on their Ramon’s Brownie Calender it says that there will be rain on April 20. I now realize that I have using the wrong calender. Peggy gives me a calender so that I can better prepare for rest of the year. We thank them for the great sandwiches and visit then continue on.
Downstream from the store, we see off in the distance the white tops of rapids. The river narrows, the rapids begin and then the river turns left because of a rocky outcrop on the right. After the turn, more rapids. We near the rapids and see that they are about four to five feet in height, the largest we’ve seen on this trip. We hit it straight on and some of each wave ends up in the canoe. Turning to the left, more waves, more water on board but we made it through.
Now a new situation arises. We went through so many big waves that the canoe is filled up to our sets with water and dangerously close to swamping. We quickly paddle to shore and take out so we can begin bailing water. After the canoe is back in order, I gather a few pieces of trash laying around. At every stop we have made, there was always some trash laying around. Today’s trash bag that I have brought along for this day’s trash clean up contains such items as beer cans, soda cans and bottles, plastic bags, one quart of oil bottle and a soleless tennis shoe. I may not save the world, but I can leave a place better than the way I found it.
We ended today’s trip at Bennie’s Beach in Brocks Gap. With the canoe out of the river, we walk up to the resturaunt for a cold beer and hot vegetable soup after a cold, rainy day We meet Buzzy Taylor who sets us up with what we need. My wife and daughter pick us up so that we head home tonight to warm up and dry out for tomorrow’s rainy looking weather. The river today was up and fast and there were a couple of rapids and trees that needed special attention but overall, an excellent day.
The first three days were hiking and now that is over, I look back and see how important it is to have the right equipment. Just having the right shoes and socks for what you are doing can make a big difference. The nearly 30 miles I hiked were made easier with the help of Steve and Gayle Shaffer of Blue Canoe Crew in Woodstock. Thank you guys for your help. I could have hiked another 30 miles but since I can float the rest of the way, I gonna go with floating.
The other photos will be the spring itself where the river begins. A waterfall on the German River. Dying hemlocks with many branches on the ground. Dangerous place to be on a windy day. Friday is a bright sunny day and no wind.
Just wanted to let ya’ll know that I dropped the men off at Lairs…run…I think. I’t back near Bergton, VA and Folks Run, VA. It was cold and rainy, but the men were able to load up the canoe and head down the river. The lighting was very interesting, so Andrew should make some nice photos today. I’m sure Andrew will post something tonight, but just wanted ya’ll to know that they are on their way!!