by Kristen Hubbard

Andrew Carnegie once wrote, “If you want to conquer fear, don’t sit at home and think about it. Go out and get busy.” It’s a nice sentiment, but most of us are out there dangling off of a rope when fear sets in.

At least, that’s what happens to me. Something just takes over, and I freeze. I go through a million excuses as to why I can’t move: my shoes, tight belay, a cramp, for God’s sake. It just comes down to being afraid. An old climbing partner of mine put it best: “It’s not that you can’t move-it’s that you won’t. There’s a big difference.”

And, he’s right. We have to manage our fear, because whether you admit it or not, we’ve all experienced it. A scene from the climbing video Frequent Flyers always stands out to me regarding fear. Obe Carrion is bouldering; he’s got one spotter and another friend is filming the action. Carrion tries a move several times before he finally turns around and tells his friend to put down the camera and help spot him: “I’m scared, dude.”

First things first: Being afraid is perfectly natural. I don’t believe anyone who tells me he or she doesn’t get scared. Hey, people fear speaking in public, so there’s no shame in fearing you might fall to your death. Climbing is a bit riskier than giving a speech on cost-savings to your coworkers. Fear is also a survival instinct, so use it to your advantage. If you’ve reached a good rest spot and are feeling shaky, check your knot, your harness, or just get an “OK” from your belayer-use your fear to become a smarter, more careful climber.

Managing your fear means you are acknowledging what is making you afraid. Mountaineering guide Priscilla Moore explains, “There’s a difference between actual danger and subjective fear.” Being afraid of heights is not the fear; it’s being afraid of landing on the jagged rocks below you. However, for most of us, the rocks below aren’t a passing thought because we trust our gear and our climbing partner. Instead, we get caught up in the “what if’s” and they usually aren’t a true danger. We are simply letting our mind interfere with finishing a route.

One climbing partner I have is a firm believer in the FEAR acronym: “False Expectations Appearing Real.” She repeats it to herself like a mantra through every tough route. She’s researched how to overcome fear and she’s a better climber for it.

With the onslaught of adventure sports, or “extremes,” books on fear abound at every corner bookstore. Reading up on the psychology of fear is actually a great way to manage it. Most books delve into the “why’s” and “how’s” but also teach simple steps to calm yourself when you feel the freeze about to kick in.

Breathing is the first step. It’s hard to do if you hold your breath during those tough moves on a technical route. But breathing is the best way to calm yourself and pull through a hard sequence. Other tricks talk about renaming fear. Try to channel all that anxious energy into something more positive: a challenge, excitement, exhilaration.

The best bit of advice? All the experts say the same thing: Someone else’s dramatic report may not be yours. The biggest lesson for me was to learn that what someone else deems “too hard, too scary, and too exposed,” doesn’t necessarily mean that will be my take. I got over the biggest hurdle when I stopped thinking that over-hyped climbing stories were true. Instead, I decided to follow my own instincts and trust my skills and experience as a climber.

Kristen Hubbard is an avid area climber. She can be reached at khubs1@juno.com.