by Sam Powell

Climbing can be a high risk sport for injuries primarily because of the stresses of hauling your body’s weight to the top of a giant rock. Injuries come in many forms, from the overuse or overtraining injuries to what the Army calls “deceleration accidents.” We’ve all heard the adage that “climbing shouldn’t hurt,” but the plain fact is it often does, whether it’s because of a previous injury or that nasty undercling crimper a few feet over your head. The trick is telling the difference between the revitalizing pain of climbing and the debilitating onset of an injury. Unless you take a whipper, the majority of climbing-related injuries you may encounter are related to your bodies joints. Your fingers, hands, elbows, and shoulders are some of the most injury prone areas.

Finger related injuries are probably the most common because the smaller joints of the hand have to support more weight (think of mono pockets) than the larger ones of the elbow and shoulder. Our species has also evolved away from the need to hang on to stuff with any rigidity for long periods.

Finger injuries come in three levels of severity, says physical therapist Aimee Roseborrough. The first level is a sprain of one of your collateral ligaments. This can feel like a dull ache at your fingers pulleys (in between your joints). This is likely the most common pain we climbers experience. Although there is some debate recently about whether or not taping fingers does any good for this type of injury, tape can be helpful if nothing else to remind you not to pull so hard. Stretching your fingers, hands, and forearms before and after climbing can also be beneficial.

The second stage of finger injury consists of a partial tear of your finger's pulley tendon. This type of injury might feel similar to a strai, but you may feel pain when trying to stretch your finger or fingers out. Rehabilitation for this type of injury is more involved and you should not climb at any level while you let your fingers heal. For the first few weeks try and warm the area and possibly squeeze half of a tennis ball. After this period some light climbing with taped tendons well below your maximum effort may be beneficial, but it’s important not to rush the healing process.

The third stage is a complete tendon rupture. You may hear a snap or pop at the time of injury. Simply put, this is going to hurt like hell. You will most likely feel pain when moving your fingers in any direction and you may notice some swelling and bruising associated with the injury location. Rehabilitation for this type of injury is a complex process that you should discuss with you physician.

Some preventive measures can be taken to minimize the chance of sustaining a finger related injury. Always warm up thoroughly, especially when it’s cold, by stretching and beginning on easier terrain. Climbing is not a seven-day-a-week activity, so allow proper time for your body to recover between training and climbing sessions. As with most injuries, you know your body best. If you suspect something is wrong, see your physician immediately. It’s better to catch and remedy a minor problem than compound it until it becomes a major injury.

Sam Powell is a climbing guide living in Charlottesville, Va.