Are you ready to rock? Then strap on your harness and hang on to BRO’s guide to the bst climbing spots in the Blue Ridge. We’ve got the beta on the Southeast’s bonanza of vertical faces, steep overhangs, and traditional cracks. Here are eight classic Appalachian climbs that will keep you reaching higher as climbing season hits its peak.

Rock Ratings

The rating of a rock climb tells you its approxiate difficulty level. Currently, American ratings for standard free climbing routes use the Yosemite Decimal System, which means climbs are given a number, 5, followed by a decimal and second number. The 5 denotes fifth-class (too steep to walk) terrain, and the decimals denotes the difficulty of that fifth-class terrain. The lowest on the scale is 5.0 and the highest is currently 5.15. Routes can have a “+” or “-“ attached to their ratings. A route rated 5.10+ is a more difficult 5.10.

Routes that are rated 5.10 and up can also have a letter, a-d, attached. A route rated 5.10a is easier than 5.10b. Like ski slope ratings, climbing ratings are completely subjective to the area in which they’re found, so one person’s 5.8 might be another’s 5.10.

For more info, visit www.rockclimbing.com.

SPORT VS. TRAD

Sport climbing is lead climbing using bolt hangers that are permanently placed in the rock. Climbers clip a quick draw into the bolt hanger and a rope into a carabiner. Sport climbs allow the climber to focus on doing the moves rather than the consequences of a fall.

Traditional or “Trad” climbing, often called a more natural form of climbing, has climbers placing protection as they go. Removable gear like nuts, cams, and pitons are placed into cracks to protect the climber in the event of a fall.

LOOKING GLASS ROCK, N.C.

Climbers in the South know Looking Glass like hikers know the Appalachian Trail. It’s an essential rock where every Dixie climber has left some chalk. The wide assortment of traditional routes on the granite dome make it popular with everyone from newbies to experts.

Looking Glass Rock is located in North Carolina’s Pisgah National Forest, just north of Brevard. Climbing guides take a lot of climbing virgins to the south face, but hard-core rock stars can be found on the intense expert climbs on the north face that are reminiscent of Yosemite.

“The location is stunning, and the exposure is right where it should be,” says Swis Stockton, veteran AMGA Climbing instructor of Granite Arches Climbing Guides. “It’s high and beautiful but not overhanging on most areas. The climbing is not all completely strenuous-a lot of it is steep slab climbing and easier crack climbing-so it’s good for folks that are beginning.”

Sweet Routes: The classics for beginners and moderates include Gemini Crack (5.8) and Second Coming (5.7). Another good starter is Sun Dial Crack (5.8). Veterans like The Odyssey (5.11) on the Sun Wall and The Womb (5.11) on the north face.

Directions: From Brevard, take Route 276 north for four miles to USFS Road #475 on the left. Pass the fish hatchery, leaving the paved road onto a graded forest road. Watch for the quick right uphill turn just after you leave the pavement that will put you on FS Road #475B. Follow this for 1.2 miles to the Slick Rock Falls parking area. The Sun Wall trailhead is another 5 minutes up 475B on the right at a climbers’ info kiosk. The trailhead for the new trail to the North Face is just a few hundreds yards further up 475B on the right.

Post-Climb Hang Time: After tackling Looking Glass, head into Brevard for beers and grub at Jason’s Main Street Grill.

LINVILLE GORGE, N.C.

Tucked away in a remote corner of the Pisgah National Forest, between Lake James and Grandfather Mountain, the Linville Gorge extends 14 miles long and 2,000 feet deep. The 12,000-acre forested wilderness is bisected by the Linville River, which flows between Jonas Ridge on the east and Linville Mountain to the west. Numerous rock formations occur along Jonas Ridge, which follows the canyon all the way to Shortoff Mountain at the southern end. This rugged high country area serves a feast of climbing entrees. According to Harrison Shull and Yon Lambert’s Select Climbs in North Carolina, Linville offers hard-to-reach ridgelines, secret bouldering coves, and imposing, improbable multi-pitch walls.

In the north, areas that appease rock hounds include Hawksbill, and Table Rock Mountain-two of the most popular climbing areas in the gorge. Table Rock is known for its three-pitch routes on the east face. To the northwest is the Devil’s Cellar, a steep chasm popular for top-roping and rappelling. Other climb favorites include the Chimneys, Carolina Wall, and Amphitheatre, before the southern end at Shortoff.

Sweet Routes: Notable east-face Table Rock routes include the 5.5s Jim Dandy and Peek-A-Boo-both three pitches.

Directions: From asheville, travel I-40 east to Hwy 221 north to the Linville Falls Community, then head east on NC 183. When you reach NC 181, go south before turning right at the Linville Gorge Wilderness sign. Expect a 20-30 minute gravel drive from the intersection of 181 and Gingercake Road.

Post-Climb Hang Time: Linville is a pretty remote spot, but if you’re not camping and looking for a little action, take the short drive into Boone and catch some tunes at the Boone Saloon.

FOSTER FALLS, TENN.

Located 45 minutes northwest of Chattanooga, Little Gizzard Creek has exposed some sweet sandstone at Foster Falls-a 60-foot waterfall pouring over the western edge of the Cumberland Plateau. The character of the rock here has led to some of the best-and most dangerous-sport climbing in the Southeast. The gorge cut by the creek has exposed a band of sandstone cliffs along the north rim. Many routes at Foster are short and moderate, making it an excellent transition to real rock for newbies with gym fever-therefore expect some crowds during peak climb time.

According to Wayne Busch, who maintains Southeastclimbing.com, Foster hosts mainly bolted sport routes on cracks and faces with roofs averaging about 60 feet in height. There are also some excellent thin-face climbs, but the routes are often strenuous. A trail down to the creek at the base of the falls offers an easy route to get in a post-climb swim.

Sweet Routes: Climber faves at Foster Falls include the 5.7 Gravity Boots, Dutch Maiden (5.10a), and Framed (5.12a).

Directions: From Chattanooga, follow I-24 east to exit 155, turn right onto Highway 28, and drive a few miles, then turn left onto Highway 41/64/72 to Jasper. Turn on 150/41 toward Tracy City, then left on US 41. Foster Falls Scenic Area is on the left three miles past the Mountain Mart store.

Post-Climb Hang Time: You could head back to Chattanooga, or spend the night car camping in Foster Falls Park, which has 25 sites with bathrooms, showers, and a picnic area with a covered pavilion.

WHITESIDE MOUNTAIN, N.C.

Whiteside Mountain is revered and often feared by climbers. Some of the South’s biggest, longest, scariest, nastiest run-out routes line its sheer face. The steep 4,930-foot peak rises out of the Nantahala National Forest near the southern border of North Carolina. Along Whiteside’s southern face, cliffs tower at 700 feet. Because of the steep terrain, this area is best suited for advanced climbers-not recommended for the faint of heart.

In a recent issue of Climbing magazine Jeff Achey said, “You climb there half knowing that that your mind might visit places you would not willingly go. It’s dangerous, and myths and superstition do a better job defending it than common sense. The essence-the justification, if there is any-lies in obscure, ineffable moments.”

Sweet Routes: Climbers mostly go to Whiteside for the 5.11a Original Route, located towards the east end of the long southern face. While the cliffs range near 700 feet high, almost 1,000 feet of climbing is required when you include all of the traverses on the route. The first pitch features140 feet of unprotected 5.7 slab.

Directions: From Brevard take US Highway 64 west through Cashiers. Before Highlands take a left on Whiteside Mountain Road to the parking lot and trailhead.

Post-Climb Hang Time: Barbecue lovers shouldn’t miss grubbing at the Carolina Smokehouse just outside of Cashiers.

NEW RIVER GORGE, W.VA.

The 63,000 acres of the New River Gorge National River features more than 1,500 routes‑on 10 miles of cliff line‑that overlooks a craggy panorama of national parkland. The‑forested “Grand Canyon of the East” was discovered as a climbing area in the late 1970s, around the time when the National Park Service assumed protection of the region. The hard sandstone cliffs that line the rim of the gorge range from 30 to 120 feet high with featured rock that has an abundance of crack and face routes for rock stars to test their mettle with forearm-burning overhangs and tiny technical crags. Most routes at the gorge tend to favor advanced climbers, being 5.9 and harder with most sport routes‑ranging from 5.10 to 5.12.

Sweet Routes: “The crack on Endless Wall and Beauty Mountain are amazing,” says Jim Taylor, who’s been climbing the gorge for 18 years. “If 5.10 or 5.11 trad is what you are looking for, here you’ll find eight miles of cliff line, so there is never any wait.” On Endless, top routes include the 5.8 Fantasy, the 5.10 Black and Tan, and the 5.11 Leave it to Jesus. Beauty’s best include the 5.9 Happy Hands and the 5.11 Welcome to Beauty. Sport climbers should check out Kaymoor Butcher’s Branch.

Directions: The New River Gorge is located in central West Virginia, along Route 19 near the quaint town of Fayetteville.

Post-Climb Hang Time: If you’re in the area for breakfast or lunch a must-stop for climbers is the Cathedral Café. The quaint, turn-of-the-century church with stained glass windows and cathedral ceilings was converted into one of the Mountain State’s best culinary treasures with a full coffee bar for your morning fix. In the evening you won’t forgive yourself if you miss having a gourmet pizza at Pies and Pints.

SENECA ROCKS, W.VA.

Located in West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest, Seneca Rocks is a set of enormous, eye-opening vertical fins of layered Tuscarora sandstone that abruptly jut 900 feet above the headwaters of the Potomac in Pendleton County. They provide some of the most popular multi-pitch traditional climbing on the East Coast, with over 375 mapped climbing routes varying from 5.0 to 5.12. Seneca is also famous for being a World War II training ground for the Army’s 10th Mountain Division.

Sweet Routes: The classic south end route at Seneca is the three-pitch 5.7 Ectsasy. On the southern pillar your best bet is the 5.10a Judgment Seat. Other faves include the 5.7 Green Wall, the 5.9 Marshall’s Madness, and the 5.11 Spock’s Brain. Gumby climbers getting a first taste of Seneca will probably start on the 5.2 Old Lady’s route, which leads to the summit of the south peak on the western side. “It’s a great place for beginners to get a taste of a summit,” says Taylor. “It’s an easy route, but when you have a 400-foot drop on either side, you realize how spectacular climbing can be.”

Directions: From Harrisonburg, Va., take Route 33 west. Seneca Rocks is located off Rt. 33, 30 miles east of Franklin, W.Va.

Post-Climb Hang Time: Nearby haunts for chow include the Valley View, located about five miles south of Seneca on Rt.55/33, which serves a mean breakfast and lunch.

RED RIVER GORGE, KY.

The “Red” is world renown for its climbing scene, boasting over 1,300 recorded routes on 104 cliffs-everything from good top-roping, aid climbing roof systems, traditional cracks of all sorts, multi-pitch classics, and vertical to severely overhanging sport climbs.

“People come to the Red for the forearm pump,” says Ray Ellington, a veteran climber and author of The Red River Gorge Climbs. “It’s a great place to climb overhanging lines and take long falls, because the routes are steep.”

The Red is also home to one of the most aggressive and most proactive climbing access organizations in the country: the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition. Last year the organization purchased private land from a local family to create the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve in the gorge’s southern region. A new area, Muir Valley, has recently been purchased by a climber-friendly couple Rick and Liz Webber. The spot with over 200 routes has finally given the area some moderate routes suitable for beginners.

Sweet Routes: With over 50 routes, Motherlode is a must for those looking for tough, steep, sport climbs-one not to be missed is the 5.13a Convicted. The Long Wall is a hot spot for a good selection of gear lines from 5.9 to 5.11.

Directions: From Lexington on I-75 take I-64 east to the Mountain Parkway Exit 98.‑ Follow the Mountain Parkway (402) to either exit 33 or exit 40.

Post-Climb Hang Time: Any climber in the Southeast will tell you to stop at Miguel’s Pizza after a day on the rocks. The restaurant and campground is located on KY 11 right passed the RRG visitors center. Serving pies that Climbingsource.com simply call “tha bomb,” Miguel’s also has a seasonally-packed “Climbers Only” campground that rock hounds love for a cheap ($2) night’s stay and $1 hot showers. Another solid option is Mark’s for barbeque.

OLD RAG, VA.

It’s known to a lot of Virginia outdoor enthusiasts as a popular hiking summit, but climbers in the South also hold a special affinity for the gardens of various rock on Old Rag Mountain, located on the eastern side of Shenandoah National Park. The 3,261-foot peak has a reputation for challenging approaches, hideous bushwhacks, and tough granite routes. Climbers get to the meat of the 100+ routes after hiking the Saddle Trail to the summit, then descending bushwhack gullies to find the stone down on the mountain flanks. “It’s all about the vistas and the variety of climbs,” says Noah Bard of Peak Experiences in Richmond. “It’s a bit of a hike to the top, but once you’re up there it’s totally worth it.”

Sweet Routes: On Sunset Wall a variety of routes are available for all levels from 5.6 on up. Bushwhack Crack is a tough route but quite rewarding with views from over 3,000 feet on this 5.10 climb that are stunning-a solemn prize for those brave enough to face the steep, technical cracks on the Wall That Dreams Are Made Of.

Directions: From Charlottesville take US 29 north to SR 231. Veer left towards Madison and turn onto SR 602. Proceed for about 3.5 miles from SR 231 and watch for the SNP parking area, which accommodates around 200 cars. It’s a 0.8 mi walk to the Ridge Trailhead at a smaller parking area (it fills fast) at end of SR 600. A little beyond, the Saddle Trail is the fastest way to the summit.

Post-Climb Hang Time: This will probably be another climbing trip where you’ll want to throw down a tent and enjoy a night of sleep in the cool mountain air, as Old Rag has some sweet spots to set up camp. Ask the park ranger about restrictions.

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ACCESS GRANTED

While most other outdoor athletes enjoy relatively easy access to their sport’s destinations, climbers constantly struggle for the right to climb their favorite crags. Cracks and faces that climbers hold so dear are rapidly disappearing behind fences and “No Trespassing” signs, especially in the South.

Nowhere has this issue played out more ferociously than at privately-owned Rumbling Bald Mountain in the Hickory Nut Gorge of North Carolina. For decades, climbers have enjoyed the buffet of rock that comprises Rumbling Bald above Lake Lure. Boulders, faces, cracks-there’s something for every climber on Rumbling Bald no matter what your particular addiction or ability is. But in recent years, Lake Lure and its neighbor Chimney Rock have become a premiere tourist destination, and land in Hickory Nut Gorge is being developed rapidly.

“It’s amazing what’s happening in the area,” says Sean Colburn, a local climber and president of the Carolina Climbers Coalition. “Ten years ago, there wasn’t any pressure, but now development is booming.”

Private landowners are cashing in and selling their lots to large-scale developers of million-dollar homes near Rumbling Bald. As a result, climbers have been on edge-fearful of losing one of the most beloved climbing destinations in the Southeast.

“Rumbling Bald is privately owned by 20 or 30 landowners,” Colburn says. “With the pressure from development, it’s now or never. Once the land is gone, it’s gone forever.”

If you can’t convince landowners and developers to protect the integrity of the land, the only thing you can do is buy it yourself. That’s what climbing and environmental groups have teamed up to do. This year, The Nature Conservancy and the Carolina Mountain Conservancy purchased 1,500 acres near Rumbling Bald for $16 million, snatching the land right from under the nose of one of the area’s most prominent developers.

In 2006, the two conservancies will turn the land, known as the World’s Edge, over to the state, along with another 850-acre parcel of Rumbling Bald they co-own with the Carolina Climber’s Coalition. The two pieces of land will comprise the heart of the proposed Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, which was recently approved by the North Carolina legislature and signed by Governor Easley.

The legislation for the park was introduced and passed in one session-record pace for this sort of proposition-but developing a state park is a multi-year process. While the park itself is a done deal, the size of the park is still uncertain. Climbing clubs hope to acquire more land for the park in the coming months.

In the meantime, nothing will change for climbers wanting to explore Rumbling Bald. “The Carolina Climbers Coalition owns the parking lot and much of the climbing area,” Colburn says. “So as far as the Bald itself, climbers should be able to access it as usual.”

However, the 1,500 acres that comprises the World’s Edge will be closed to the public until it’s passed over to the state. “We want to ensure the land is in good shape when we hand it over,” says Maria Sadowski of The Nature Conservancy.