by Kristen Hubbard

Five years ago, you could walk into any gear shop and find a tiny, two-shelved corner dedicated to climbing shoes. But, lately-especially this season-you'll notice a much bigger spread. While finding the right shoe is probably the most unpleasant-and potentially painful-experience I associate with the sport, at least companies are giving us more choices that are much easier on the wallet.

Why are we seeing such a significant drop in price?

"Competition," says Rick Molique, gear shop manager of Peak Experiences Climbing Gym. "The drop happened when Mad Rock and some others, like Evolv and Bufo, started an 'under $100' trend about three years ago."

While veterans may have questioned the quality, not-so-seasoned climbers were scooping up these less expensive soles. And, I can say from experience, once you've got a pair of shoes you're used to wearing, you're typically hooked on that brand.

"Climbing shoes all across the board-except for maybe Boreal-have dropped in price, while the demand for performance has increased. Now, consumers are running the climbing shoe circuit,” says Molique. "Rock climbing, as a sport, is steadily growing in numbers. Chalk it up to TV commercials, movies, shows, ropes courses, summer camps-you name it. It's here to stay." The market is recognizing this trend and bringing in not only more variety, but more affordable selections.

How do you find the right climbing shoe for you? The fit of a climbing shoe is always up for debate and usually determined by how masochistic you like the shoe to be. Generally, conventional wisdom says that your toes should be right at the end of the shoe, but not curled under. If you notice gaps or bumps, then the shoe will probably stretch too much for top performance. Ideally, the shoe should be snug and glove-like without any extra space in the heel. Unlined shoes will stretch noticeably, while those with lining typically remain true to size throughout the life of the shoe.

The way the shoe is constructed is something else to factor in. Slip-lasted shoes are made by sewing the uppers to a leather insole to create a kind of sock which goes over the "last." The last is what simulates the shape of the foot. Slip-lasted shoes are usually sensitive and flexible and tend to stretch.

Board-lasted shoes are made more like traditional shoes in that the uppers are glued to an insole. This type of shoe is stiff and better for edging. Some think that the stiff sole makes board-lasted shoes more comfortable for climbing cracks, although the stiffness also makes for a good beginner shoe.

Finally, the shape of the sole is something worth a closer look. Sole patterns are created for different styles of climbing as well as foot shapes. Curved patterns that displace toward the big toe are typically high performance. However, don't let this influence what you buy. It's the shape of your foot and the fit that should dictate where you spend your dollars.

With the added choices, what new shoes are worth the fit test? LaSportiva has a new slipper, the Venom, built on the old Cobra last that has mesh rubber over the top of the foot to allow for-get this-stretching. This little bit of give is to keep the Venom from reaching the "blow out" stage. Mad Rock has several choices, like the Katana, Loco, and the Phoenix, and they’re being sold at some of the lowest prices on the market. If you've got the patience to try a few new styles, chances are you might find a good fit that doesn't break the bank. And, you'll know it's the right pair if you're able to get the shoes on without bringing too many tears to your eyes.

Kristen Hubbard can be reached at khubs1@juno.com.