The view from “The Lunch Ledge” on Table Rock.

Route Ratings
Climbers use a universal number system to rate the difficulty of each climbing route, called the Yosemite Decimal System. Beginner rock climbs are in the 5.1 to 5.6 range, 5.7-5.10 are intermediate to advanced, and 5.11 and above are reserved for professional climbers. The hardest routes being climbed today are 5.15b. The letter at the end of the grade indicates the difficulty of that particular climb within the 5.15 range (“a” being the easiest 5.15 and “d” being the hardest).

LITTLE STONY MAN
Shenandoah National Park, Va.
This cliff band sits off Skyline Drive at 3,500 feet in elevation. The routes are long (nothing less than 80 feet) and most have a convenient ledge halfway through that offers stellar views of the valley below. Trails (including the A.T.) run above and below the cliffs, offering easy access and plenty of top rope anchor possibilities. All the routes are singlepitch, but they’re long, so bring a long rope and some endurance.
Best Beginner Routes: Chimney Cricket (5.3), Head First (5.6), Chimney in a Chimney (5.6)

TABLE ROCK MOUNTAIN
Pisgah National Forest, N.C.
Table Rock sits on the east rim of the Linville Gorge, offering routes on quartzite faces that stretch for 600 feet. There are a few top rope routes to be found on Table Rock, but the majority are mixed trad and sport. The need for placing gear can be a barrier for beginners, but go with a paid guide or experienced mentor and this could be the mountain that takes you from top roping newbie to multi-pitch fanatic.
Best Beginner Routes: Jim Dandy (5.5), My Route (5.6), The Cave Route (5.5).

CROWDERS MOUNTAIN
Crowders Mountain State Park, N.C.
Sure, climbers have dubbed this popular rock “Crowded Mountain,” but there’s a reason why so many people love to climb here. More than 100 routes traverse Crowders, which sticks out from the surrounding piedmont flats like a hippie at a country club. The mountain peaks around 1,600 feet, but you feel like you’re climbing on top of a 6,000-footer. Quartzite fins stick out of the summit, creating a mecca of super-featured climbs that are easily rigged for top roping, thanks to an access trail traversing the summit.
Best Beginner Routes: Gastonia Crack (5.4), Big Crack (5.5), The Bear (5.7).

SUNSET ROCK
Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, Tenn.
Few crags are as storied as Sunset, an 80-foot tall cliff band that stretches for a mile on the western rim of Lookout Mountain. The cliffs played a pivotal role in the Civil War as well as a pivotal role in southern rock climbing–Sunset is often considered the birthplace of sandstone. Climbers have been sending this cliff for sport since at least the 1940s, making it one of the oldest recognized crags below the Mason Dixon.
Best Beginner Routes: One-Ten (5.6), Airbrush (5.6), Blonde Ambition (5.7).

URBAN CRAGS
These urban crags offer stellar climbing with a fraction of the commute.

MANCHESTER WALL
Richmond, Va.
This is actually a 60-foot tall railroad pier made from massive granite blocks cut from the Belle Isle quarry, but local climbers have turned it into a sport-route training ground and established dozens of climbs ranging from 5.3 to 5.10. A lot of local climbers use the wall as a massive bouldering traverse (the base is 150 feet wide), while newbies often tick off their first sport lead here.
Best Beginner Route: Hooked on a Feeling (5.7)

BOAT ROCK
Atlanta, Ga.
Boat Rock consists of a half-mile of massive granite boulders sitting in the middle of an Atlanta suburb near the Chattahoochee River. The Southeastern Climbers Coalition saved the area from development by purchasing the crag. A number of easier problems are scattered throughout the field, which has become a haven for Atlanta-locked climbers.
Best Beginner Route: Easy Crack (5.1).

MARYLAND HEIGHTS
Harpers Ferry, W.Va.
Maryland Heights is a 100-foot cliff band overlooking downtown Harpers Ferry, just across from the Potomac. Most of the established routes are in the 5.2 to 5.8 range, so the area is perfect for beginners, as long as you’re climbing with someone experienced in leading trad. The cliff sits inside Harpers Ferry National Historic Park, so be sure to register at the visitor’s center, and local climbers would appreciate it if you left your bolts and chalk at home.
Best Beginner Climb: Hard Up (5.7) •

Harness:

Rope:
Ropes come in a variety of sizes and lengths, as well as two main categories: dynamic and static. You can only support a climber with a dynamic rope, so forget static lines until you’re good enough to guide others. Within the dynamic category, you can choose between “dry” and “non-dry.” Get the dry and you’ll be safe to climb whatever the weather conditions. Size matters, and for the most versatility, choose a rope between 9.2mm and 11mm. As for length, 60 meters should be plenty long for any pitch you find yourself on. Check out Mammut’s 10.2mm Supersafe, which is coated with Teflon to build resistance against sharp edges. Marks appear five meters from each end letting you know when you’re about to run out of rope. $259.95 // mammut.ch

Shoes:
Forget edging for your first climbing shoe. What you want is a shoe that’s comfortable enough to keep you climbing. (Try wedging your feet into performance-based climbing shoes on your first climb and you won’t come back for a second). The La Sportiva Tradmaster has a stiff midsole and plush lining, both of which help new climbers transition into the masochistic world of climbing shoes. It’s comfy enough to belay in, while also giving you the performance you need on the rock. $110 // sportiva.com.

Helmet:
Climbing often loosens rock, which tends to fall on top of the belayer. Mammut’s Tripod is designed for all-day comfort (light, padded, numerous vents), but we like the quick-adjust headband, which can be fitted with one hand on the fly. $79.95 // mammut.ch

Arete
An outside corner on a rock face, like corners of a pyramid.
Buttress
A rock formation that projects out from the main face or cliff.
Chimney
A wide crack usually big enough to fit the climber’s entire body inside.
Crux
The most difficult portion of a climb. Usually, the crux is a single move or a short sequence of moves.
Dihedral
Where two walls meet to form an inside corner.
Flash
To successfully send a route the first time without practicing it
Leading
Sending a sport or trad route first, either placing protection as you go or clipping in to existing bolts. The level of risk is higher when leading, as you’re not automatically anchored to the rock.
Pitch
The distance climbed with one length of rope. Climbs can be single-pitch or multi-pitch. Table Rock, N.C. is famous for its multi-pitch routes (600 feet long), whereas Sunset Rock, Tenn., is known for its single-pitch routes (less than 80 feet).
Problem
A bouldering term, meaning the path the climber takes to complete the climb. A bouldering problem is the equivalent of a climbing route.
Send
To successfully complete, or “ascend,” a route.

The rope is your lifeline when climbing.

On The Crag
Don’t step on the rope, and try to keep it out of the dirt and mud, which in time will weaken the rope’s condition. Some climbers even bring a small tarp to lay on the ground at the belay station so the rope never hits the ground. When rappelling, descend at a smooth, moderate speed and avoid jerky movements. If you take a hard fall, alternate the ends of the rope before climbing again, which will give the rope’s fibers a chance to rebound. After climbing, coil your rope properly to avoid twists, kinks, and unwanted knots.

At Home
Washing your rope increases its life expectancy by removing abrasive dirt from the sheath. If dirty, wash the rope by hand in your tub, using cold water and a mild chemical-free soap, rinsing it thoroughly. Spread it out to dry out of the sunlight. Store the rope in a cool, dark place and don’t hang it from its coil.

Most Important
Keep a logbook that tracks the dates and severity of your falls. Ropes can withstand hundreds of short falls, but are rated to be retired after only a handful of serious falls.

Climbers ascend Table Rock, N.C.

Rock climbing is like forming a band in high school; everyone does it, but very few of us do it right. Typically, this is the way most of us begin climbing: You see some videos on Youtube or maybe watch Stallone’s Cliffhanger, get psyched about dyno moves, then convince some work buddy who claims to be “big into rock climbing” to take you out one Saturday afternoon. But said work buddy’s climbing experience is limited to hitting on chicks at the local climbing gym. He has to retie your knot three times before he says, “I think that’s right,” and you spend about 20 minutes stuck to the side of a sandstone route that’s way over your head wondering why anyone would risk their life just to make it to the top of a rock that you could probably summit on a hiking trail anyway. Once safely on the ground you swear you’ll never strap on a climbing harness again.

There’s a better way to begin your rock climbing career. Follow this guide and learn about common mistakes, proper gear, training tips, and where to find beginner-friendly rock.

ARE YOU TRAD OR SPORT?
There is more than one way to send that rock. Here are the three most common forms of rock climbing.

Top Rope: The rope is attached to a fixed anchor or temporary anchor at the top of the climb, allowing for a single point of contact above the climber. Top roping is usually the first form of climbing athletes explore. It’s single pitch only, so you remain relatively close to the ground, it requires a limited amount of gear, and because of the higher anchor position, a top roped climber never actually “falls” as long as the belayer is doing his/her job. There’s always tension on the rope so instead of falling several feet to a point of protection below the climber, you swing away from the rock staying at the same position.

Sport Climbing: Permanent bolts are fixed to a given route allowing climbers to “clip in” as they progress up the wall. While sport climbing is very popular in Western states, bolted routes are few and far between in the Southeast. The Red River Gorge in Kentucky and Foster Falls in Tennessee are hotbeds of southern sport climbing.

Traditional Climbing (“trad”): The most common form of climbing in the Southeast, trad climbers place their own temporary protection in the rock as they send a route. Climbers are equipped with a “rack” of gear which is placed in cracks and crevices throughout the climb to protect against falls. In multi-pitch trad climbs, one climber leads placing protection and the second climber follows removing the protection.

TRAIN SMARTER
Climbing is the best way to train for climbing, but how do you train for rock climbing when you can’t climb rock? Think muscle endurance. Pull-ups are good, but you need to train your entire body to withstand the demand of sending 80-foot long routes without rest. Forget the big plates in the weight room. Instead, do full body exercises like “cleans” and “burpees” that hinge on low weight at high reps. Work your core and don’t neglect your cardio and you’ll perform better on the rock than just knocking out a bunch of pull-ups.

POSTURE PLEASE
Proper climbing posture can often feel awkward for beginners who want to hug the wall with every inch of their body. Instead of sticking to the rock like glue, adopt this basic climbing stance: “Keep your arms straight, your back arched and your hips pushed toward the rock, as if you’re leaning away from the rock with your upper body,” says Swis Stockton of Granite Arches. “This keeps the stress on your legs, which is the key to climbing endurance.” When you’re comfortable with the stance, work the wall with your legs, thinking about foot placement first and hand placement last. Maintain contact with your feet. If your feet are slipping off a hold, you’re putting too much pressure on your upper body (hugging the wall) and not enough on your lower body.

[1] Forgetting your feet
“Most beginners try to muscle up a route, using all upper body and dragging their feet up the rock,” says Ryan Beasley, owner of Rock Dimensions, a climbing guide and instructional service. “But if you use your feet well and keep your hips in balance, you’ll be able to climb longer and more efficiently.”
Avoid It: During your climb, place two foot moves for every one hand move.

[2] Reaching for the stars
“Beginners have a tendency to reach for holds way above their head with every move,” says Seneca Rocks climbing guide Alan Goldbetter. “This puts a lot of emphasis on the upper body and can lead to injury.”
Avoid It: Find an easy route and climb it without raising your hands above your head.

[3]  Overtraining your hands
“I see climbers with those squeeze grips all the time. They look cool, but it’s easy to overdo it on hand exercises,” says Greg Perry, co-founder of Atlanta Rocks Climbing Gym. “Your hand is made up predominantly of tendons and ligaments, not muscles.”
Avoid It: You need hand strength, but you’ll get it naturally by climbing. Ditch the squeeze balls.

[4]  Sacrificing safety for glory
It’s easy to get in over your head when climbing. If you’re too gung-ho, you might find yourself on a climb that’s out of your league with suspect anchors and knots that aren’t keeping you as safe as they should.
Avoid It: “There’s a progression to climbing,” says Swis Stockton of Granite Arches. “Climb smaller rocks first, learn some technique, then move on to bigger rocks.”

[5]  Faking an anchor
“There are plenty of people out there setting up anchors that don’t have enough knowledge,” Ryan Beasley says. “A lot of times, they’ll just try to replicate what they saw other people do, but they don’t have the core concepts of anchor building down. Every site is different, requiring a different approach to the anchor.
Avoid it: After taking the appropriate anchor building and top roping classes, you’ll want to start climbing on your own. How do you know when you’re ready? Ask a guide or mentor to brutally assess your anchor-building and knot-tying skills. Spending an extra day or two working on the fundamentals is better than risking injury by climbing with uncertain technique.